For more info on how to do this go to

http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/springs.html

 

<!-- Start Bravenet Traffic Exchange -->
<SCRIPT LANGUAGE="javascript" TYPE="text/javascript"
src="http://exchange.bravenet.com/exit.php?id=3058143413">
</script>
<!-- End Bravenet Traffic Exchange -->

Here are a few things that may help

 

HOW TO MAKE SPRINGS

There are three things you'll need to read before you get started. First, the DISCLAIMER:

This document is designed to provide information in regard to the subject matter being covered. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents. However there may be mistakes, both typographical and in content. Additionally, work in the metal trades implies an acceptance of the risk of injury, loss, or damage, the cause of which is clearly beyond the control of the writer of a work on the subject. Therefore, the author of this document accepts no responsibility or liability whatsoever for any injury, loss or damage sustained by a reader who, having read this material, then seeks to apply what he or she has learned therein.

Please read the Terms of Use.

Second, before you start to work with spring wire, read the section on safety. When you have read that section, read it again. No kidding.

And third, about this document: I've tried to write for the benefit of someone who has (or can gain access to) basic hand and power tools. The sections of the document are arranged in logical order presuming a minimal knowledge of the metalworking trades in general or of springmaking in particular, and cross-linked to provide a forward path that leads from this point through the entire manufacturing process. There's a glossary of spring terminology and an addendum, which should help you to define terms and find additional resources. Where possible, I've indicated where to find additional information in the main body of the text. Most of the current material relating to the subject is written for mechanical engineers, but there are some other writeups I've heard of, too -- see the addendum for links to these.

In its first incarnation, this site was made in frames. In the second, I did away with the frames for the sake of design simplicity. My apologies to anyone who linked to "frameset". The other new addition is the site map, which will give you a bird's-eye view of the whole shebang. This is now the third incarnation and except for freshening the links from time to time, I consider it done. If you want to have it as a handy reference, feel free to download the zipped version. Lastly, the text itself is of very limited use without the graphics, and there is no "text-only" version of this site. So if you've got your graphics turned off, turn 'em on, OK?

Any comments or suggestions for improvement should be made to yours truly.

INTRODUCTION

This section will give you some basic information about springs, what they look like, what their parts are, and how they work.

If you already know about springs and want to get right to it, be my guest.

There are three basic types of springs:

Compression springs can be found in ballpoint pens, pogo sticks, and the valve assemblies of gasoline engines. When you put a load on the spring, making it shorter, it pushes back against the load and tries to get back to its original length.

Extension springs are found in garage door assemblies, vise-grip pliers, and carburetors. They are attached at both ends, and when the things they are attached to move apart, the spring tries to bring them together again.

Torsion springs can be found on clipboards, underneath swing-down tailgates, and, again, in car engines. The ends of torsion springs are attached to other things, and when those things rotate around the center of the spring, the spring tries to push them back to their original position.

 


SPRING DESIGN

If you're trying to make a spring to replace a broken one, you don't need to know a whole lot about design. On the other hand, if you're making a prototype of a machine, for instance, and you don't know exactly what you want, then this page is for you. Here you'll learn some basic data about spring design, which is what you'll need to know to make exactly the spring you want.

General Principles

There are three basic principles in spring design:

  • The heavier the wire, the stronger the spring.
  • The smaller the coil, the stronger the spring.
  • The more active coils, the less load you will have to apply in order to get it to move a certain distance.

Based on these general principles, you now know what to do to change the properties of a spring you already have. For instance, if you want to make automotive valve springs a little stronger than stock, you can a) go to a slightly heavier wire and keep the dimensions and coil count the same, b) decrease the diameter of the spring, keeping the wire size and coil count the same, or c) decrease the number of active coils, keeping the wire size and spring diameter the same. Naturally, you can also go to a stronger material to achieve the same result.

Now, what if you're making a spring from scratch, with nothing to go on in the way of a sample? You can engineer your own design (see the next section of this page for the math), coil a spring, and then test it. If it's what you want, fine. If it's, let's say, a skosh too strong, then you can a) go to a lighter wire, b) open up the coil diameter, or c) increase the number of active coils to get a slightly weaker spring.

Or, if you want to make things really simple, go to the Addendum, where you'll find a few websites that offer online design!

Mathematics

Naturally, spring design software is available -- you can find out where to get it in the Addendum. For the purists (or those who don't want to pay for a program), here's a very short summary of the mathematics of spring design. These equations, by the way, are taken from The New American Machinist's Handbook, published by McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc.in 1955. I don't pretend to understand them.

There's a lot more in the way of engineering that goes into spring design: these are only the basic equations. If you're interested, you can contact someone who makes spring design software or (gasp!) find it in the library under Dewey classification number 621.824.

You can also contact the Spring Manufacturers' Institute: they make a handy-dandy spring calculator, suitable for simple design work, that anyone can learn to use. They also have spring design software, training classes, and a bunch more stuff. Dave sez, "Check it out."

Design Limitations

Depending on what kind of spring you want to design, and depending on where it will be used, your design will be limited:

For all springs:

  • A spring under load is stressed. If you put too much stress on a spring, its shape will deform and it will not return to its original dimensions.
  • The material from which the spring is made will have an effect on the strength of the spring: it will also have an effect on how much stress the spring will withstand. The section on spring materials will tell you more about this.
  • When you heat spring wire (which you always do), it may change its dimensions. Again, the section on materials will tell you more about this.

For compression springs:

  • If the spring will set solid (compress all the way, so that all the coils touch each other) at the limit of its travel, the diameter of the wire times the number of coils cannot be greater than the space allowed, unless you want the spring itself to act as a mechanical stop to the motion.
  • Springs that operate in a high-temperature environment (like for instance inside an engine) will need to be made slightly longer to compensate for the fact that the heat may have an effect on the length of the spring. The section on finishing will tell you more about this.
  • As a compression spring assumes a load and shortens, the diameter of the active coils will increase. This is only a problem when the spring has to work in a confined space.

For extension springs:

  • There should be some mechanical limit on how far the spring will extend, or the spring will lose its shape and not return to its initial condition with all coils closed.
  • Extension springs operating in a high-temperature environment may have to be coiled extra-tight, as the heat will tend to weaken the spring. The section on extension springs will tell you more about this.

For torsion springs:

  • When a torsion springs assumes a load, the diameter of the coil body will decrease. If the spring has something inside the coil, it will act as a mechanical stop to the action of the spring.

Buying Design

If you want to have a mechanical engineer design your spring, your best bet is to call a spring shop. You can find spring shops in the phone book. If your phone book doesn't list any, go to the library: they should have phone books for major cities where spring factories are -- try Detroit or Los Angeles if there are none in your area.

A spring shop will generally do the design work for you for a small charge. They will also try to get you to let them make the spring for you, which you may or may not want.

The section on spring shops will tell you more about how their business operates. The addendum will give you links to spring shops, suppliers, people who make spring design software, and a whole slew of other stuff.

Forward to Materials

 

 

COMPRESSION SPRINGS

This page will tell you how to make compression springs. Making compression springs is a lot more fun than making either extension or torsion springs, but it's also a lot more complicated.

Before we start, let's have a word about equipment. Compression springs have pitch -- that's the distance between the open coils in the spring -- and to make a spring with pitch means that you have to be able to control how fast your wire guide travels from left to right as the arbor turns around.

With a lathe, it's easy. You just engage the lead screw and away you go.

But with a drill or a hand winder, it's more difficult. Not impossible, just more difficult.

Spring shops get around the difficulty by buying a hand-winding machine designed for making light compression springs. These are designed so that once you set it up, you can make any number of springs and they will all be exactly the same. Carlson Company, Inc. is one manufacturer of hand-winders: they can be contacted at 605 Bain St., Springdale AR 72764 or by phone at (501) 756-2169. *

Using a lathe, especially for light wire, you're likely to get a lot of different springs, even though you think you're doing the same thing each time you wind one. That's the difference between doing the job "by eye" and having professional equipment.

Wire Length

The first thing to do is figure out how much wire you'll need to make a spring. To do this:

  1. Take the outside diameter of the spring and multiply it by 3.3.
  2. Take the number of active coils and add 9.
  3. Multiply the results of steps 1 and 2 together.
  4. Add in a fudge factor. With light wire, make the fudge factor about 6"; with medium wire, about 3'; with heavy wire, about 6'.
  5. Write the result down. If you're WAY off, you can save yourself a lot of wire by cutting it closer. By writing down what you think you'll need, you'll know how much you can change this figure and still have a margin for safety.

Coiling the First Trial

BEFORE YOU START, set your lead screw to the right setting and make sure your back gear is engaged. Remember that the heavier the wire you're using, the slower your lathe speed should be. Here's how to set your lead screw speed:

  1. First make sure that the lead screw will go in the right direction -- left to right -- when you engage it.
  2. The second step is to set the speed of the lead screw so that the coils will be properly spaced along the arbor. To do this, measure (or figure out by math, or guess) how far apart the coils should be.

The quick way to ballpark the pitch is:

    1. Take the free length of the spring and subtract 1½ times the diameter of the wire.
    2. Divide the result by the number of active coils.
  1. Then turn on your lathe and engage the lead screw. Hold a piece of chalk tight against the tool post and move the post toward the arbor until the chalk just touches it. Let the chalk mark the arbor for a couple of turns, and then stop the lathe.
  2. Measure the distance between your chalk marks and compare it to what you want. Adjust the speed of your lead screw until they're about the same.

Once you've gotten your lead screw setting, you can go ahead and make your first trial spring:

  1. Cut a piece of wire to the length you figured out above. Be sure that anyone else in the area stays out of danger while you do the rest of this. Also, get your oven heated up.
  2. Put the wire into your setup and move your wire guide to the left, close enough to the pickup pin so that the wire catches on both.

Your setup should now look like this:

READ THE NEXT STEP ALL THE WAY THROUGH BEFORE YOU START IT.

  1. Start your coiling. Move the chuck DEAD SLOW until the wire has come around for one full coil. Lay down at least two full coils touching each other. The way you do this is to have your wire guide a little to the LEFT of where the wire lays down on the arbor, like this:

  1. When you have these first coils laid down on the arbor, you'll then need to do two things at the same time.
    1. First, engage your lead screw.

If you're winding wire over about .187", DO NOT reach over the wire to grab the lead screw control! Instead, reach UNDER the wire. That way, if the wire guide breaks, the wire won't take your arm off at the shoulder.

    1. Second, start counting your coils. Count "one" each time the point at which the active coils separate from the end coils passes the top of the chuck.

Looking at the setup from the top, this is the point you use to count:

    1. Keep counting until you reach the number of active coils you want in the finished spring, and then let a couple more coils wind on, keeping your count going. Then disengage the lead screw. The wire will close up on itself and start to form closed coils.
    2. Let a couple of closed coils form on the arbor and then turn off the lathe. DON'T LET THE "BACK" END OF THE WIRE PASS THE PIN ON THE WIRE GUIDE! Write down your final coil count for reference.
    3. Reverse the chuck slowly so that the spring is loose on the arbor. Don't let the pickup pin or the jaws of the chuck catch the front end of the wire as the spring gets loose on the arbor!

If there's a lot of extra wire, cut it off. Then, put your spring into the oven and relieve the stress. For this trial, you can leave it in the oven for half an hour. Remember that stress relief will cause music wire springs to close up slightly, while stainless steel will expand.

When you've finished this process, let the spring air-cool and measure it to see how close you came to what you want. Check the diameter first. If it's not OK, don't bother going any further: you'll need a different arbor, which will change all the rest of your dimensions.

If the diameter is OK, count the number of active coils in your spring. You should be pretty close: for a small number of springs, being a quarter coil off either way is OK. If you're more than a quarter coil off, figure out how much more or less you need and change your coil count for the next trial.

Coiling without a lead screw

It's possible to coil compression springs without a lead screw on your lathe. The difficulty you'll run into is making more than one spring alike. Here's how you do it:

  1. Calculate the pitch of the spring. Take the free length, subtract 1½ wire diameters, and divide the result by the number of active coils you want.
  2. Hold your chalk up against the tool post and move the tool post toward the arbor until the chalk leaves a mark an inch or two to the right of the chuck.
  3. Turn on the lathe, letting the chalk ride on the arbor, making a complete circle around the arbor.
  4. With the handwheel, move the tool post to the right at a steady pace, keeping the chalk in contact with the arbor. The chalk will mark a path approximating the spring you want to make.
  5. Count the number of coils you mark with the chalk and stop the rightward motion of the tool post when you reach your trial coil count.
  6. Let the lathe continue to run until the chalk has marked the arbor all the way around.
  7. Wind a trial spring, making the wire follow your chalk line as closely as possible.
  8. If your spring is not right, wash the chalk off the arbor, recalculate the pitch as needed, and try again.

Finishing the Ends

The next step is to cut off the excess coils from both ends. Find the point where the active coils first close up and cut off anything past that point. Each end of your spring should look like this when you're done:

This type of end is called a "closed end". For a lot of applications, you can leave your springs exactly like this: if this is the case with your spring, you can skip down to "Free Length". If your spring has to be ground square, read on.

Grinding

BEFORE YOU START, PUT ON A PAIR OF GLOVES. There's nothing quite so much fun as accidentally touching your hand to a moving grinding wheel! Then, make sure that there's nothing flammable nearby: grinding will give off sparks!

Take your spring over to your grinding wheel and grind it square. Some tips:

  • Hold the spring lightly, so that if it catches on the grinding wheel it won't drag your hand along with it.
  • A standard bench grinder will work for light wire, but whatever size grinder you're using, grind on the side of the wheel -- not the front.
  • Start grinding with the free end up, rotating the spring about 1/8 of a turn every so often.
  • Keep the spring square with the grinding wheel. With light wire, it's easy. Heavy wire takes some practice. Spring shops have jigs that they use for keeping the springs square while grinding.
  • Move the spring from side to side across the surface of the grinding wheel (which prevents the spring from digging a groove in it). Keep the body of the spring perpendicular to the flat side of the wheel, and don't forget to dress the wheel from time to time, especially if you're grinding stainless steel or other softer material.
  • Every few seconds, dip the end of the spring into some water to keep it cool. If it starts to glow red, it's WAY too hot. Stainless steel has to be kept cooler than other types of wire.
  • When you've ground the top surface, start to rotate the spring so that the grinding wheel ends up hitting 3/4 of the first coil.
  • Grind until the tip of the first coil is about 3/4 ground away. If you've kept the spring square to your wheel, that'll give you a good grind.

If you're looking at the end of the spring, the ground surface should look like this:

The other thing to check is how square your ground ends are. You can do this by setting your spring down next to a carpenter's square, a machinist's square, a book, or anything else that stands up straight. Then, holding the bottom end of the spring next to your square, turn the spring around and watch the gap between the square and the top end.

If your spring is perfectly square, there will be no gap as you turn the spring around. A small gap is OK, since the ends of the spring will flatten out under load. If there's a big gap, then you need to grind the end some more. (Commercial squareness in spring shops is +3 degrees.)

When you're finished grinding the end surfaces, use a file or a pointed grinding stone to get rid of any burrs on both the outside and the inside of the ends.

Free Length

Once you've ground your ends, measure the length of the spring from end to end ("free length"). If it's not what you want, you may have to adjust your lead screw speed. Here's how to tell what adjustments to make:

  • If the number of active coils is right but the spring is too short, keep the coil count the same and increase the speed of the lead screw.
  • If the number of active coils is right but the spring is too long, keep the coil count the same and decrease the speed of the lead screw.
  • If the number of active coils is too low and the spring is too short, increase your coil count.
  • If the number of active coils is too low and the spring is too long, increase your coil count and decrease the speed of your lead screw.
  • If the number of active coils is too high and the spring is too short, decrease your coil count and increase the speed of your lead screw.
  • If the number of active coils is too high and the spring is too long, decrease your coil count.

One last thing. If your spring is good except that it's just a little long, you may be able to shorten it without any more grinding. There are two ways to do this:

Setting solid:

Take the spring and put enough load on it to make all the open coils touch each other all the way around. This is called setting the spring solid, and it might shorten your spring up a little bit.

Remember that when you put a load on a compression spring, it'll want to spring back to its free length. If you hold it unevenly, it might fly out sideways. Best bet, if you're going to set your springs solid, is to mount your arbor in a vise, slip your spring(s) onto the arbor, and set them solid using a piece of flat steel, drilled to accommodate the arbor. This will prevent your springs from flying away and hurting someone.

Heat setting:

Heat setting your springs will make them shorter than setting them solid will. You MUST heat set springs that will be used somewhere hot -- like inside an engine, for instance. Here's how to do it:

  1. Find a rod that's longer than your spring and just a little bit narrower than the inside diameter of the spring. The arbor you used to coil the spring should work nicely.
  2. Grind a flat spot near one end and make two collet clamps. Mount one so that the set screw fits into the flat spot on the rod.
  3. Slide your spring onto the rod up against the collet clamp and slide the other collet clamp on after it.
  4. Set the spring solid ON THE BAR, using a vise as in "setting solid" above, and tighten the set screw on the second collet clamp so that it holds the spring in that position.

AFTER THIS POINT, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO POINT EITHER END OF THE ROD AT ANYONE, INCLUDING YOURSELF!

  1. Stick the rod, with the spring and collet clamps, into your oven. The longer you let it cook, or the higher the temperature, the shorter the spring will get.
  2. Take the rod out of the oven and let it air-cool.
  3. MAKING SURE THAT THE ENDS OF THE ROD POINT AWAY FROM YOU, loosen the second collet clamp. If you're working with heavy wire, mount the "tail" end of the rod in a vise, so that when the collet clamp breaks loose, it won't go anywhere.

The spring will bounce back to near its free length, and you can check it against what you want.

<HR align=center width="
 
<DIV class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; TEXT-ALIGN: cente